Let's settle this right now: real New England clam chowder does not contain tomatoes. That's Manhattan chowder, and while I have nothing against Manhattan, putting tomatoes in chowder is like putting ketchup on a lobster roll. It's technically legal, but it's wrong.
This recipe comes from my grandmother, who learned it from her mother, who fed it to fishermen coming off boats in the harbor. It's simple, it's rich, and it tastes like Nantucket in a bowl.
The Ingredient
Good chowder starts with good clams. On Nantucket, that means littlenecks or cherrystones—hard-shell clams dug from local waters. You can use quahogs (larger, chewier) if that's what you have, but the smaller clams are sweeter.
The other non-negotiable? Salt pork. Bacon works in a pinch, but salt pork renders into something silky that bacon can't match. Ask your butcher, or check the meat section at Stop & Shop.
Where to Source
- Sayle's Seafood — Fresh clams, usually same-day harvest
- 167 Raw — Shellfish specialists
- Stop & Shop — For salt pork and heavy cream
- Bartlett's Farm — Fresh thyme and good potatoes
Ingredients
- Fresh littleneck or cherrystone clams 4 lbs
- Water or light fish stock 2 cups
- Salt pork, diced small 4 oz
- Yellow onion, diced 1 large
- Celery, diced 2 stalks
- Yukon Gold potatoes, cubed 1.5 lbs
- Fresh thyme 4 sprigs
- Bay leaf 1
- Heavy cream 2 cups
- Whole milk 1 cup
- Unsalted butter 2 tbsp
- Black pepper to taste
- Oyster crackers for serving
Instructions
- Steam the clams. Scrub them under cold water, discarding any that are open and won't close when tapped. Place in a large pot with 2 cups water, cover, and steam over high heat until they open (5-8 minutes). Discard any that don't open. Reserve the cooking liquid—this is liquid gold.
- Remove clams from shells. Let cool enough to handle, then pull the meat from the shells. Chop roughly—you want pieces, not mush. Strain the cooking liquid through cheesecloth or a fine-mesh strainer to remove any grit. Set both aside.
- Render the salt pork. In a large heavy pot or Dutch oven, cook the salt pork over medium heat until the fat renders and the pieces are crispy (8-10 minutes). Remove the crispy bits and save them for garnish if you like.
- Build the base. Add onion and celery to the pork fat and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the potatoes, reserved clam liquid, thyme, and bay leaf. Bring to a simmer and cook until potatoes are just tender, about 15 minutes.
- Add the dairy. Reduce heat to low. Add cream and milk, stirring gently. Heat through but don't let it boil—boiling cream is a sad thing. Season with black pepper (you probably won't need salt—the clams and salt pork provide plenty).
- Add the clams and finish. Stir in the chopped clams and butter. Heat just until warmed through—overcooking makes clams rubbery. Remove bay leaf and thyme stems.
- Let it rest. Here's the secret: chowder tastes better after it sits. If you can make it a few hours ahead (or even the day before), reheat gently before serving. The flavors meld into something magical.
Sally's Tips
Don't even think about using canned clams. I know they're convenient. I know fresh clams are work. But the difference is night and day—canned clams have a metallic taste and rubbery texture that no amount of cream can hide. If you can't get fresh clams, make something else.
Serve With
- Oyster crackers (traditional and correct)
- Crusty sourdough for dipping
- A simple green salad
- More chowder (there's never enough)
The Story
Every Nantucket family has a chowder recipe, and every family thinks theirs is best. The debates are endless: Cream or milk? Flour or no flour? Potatoes cubed or sliced? My grandmother added a splash of sherry at the end, which my mother considered scandalous and I consider genius.
The one thing everyone agrees on: it has to be made with love, patience, and clams that were in the harbor that morning.